African Bushmeat Expedition

Our last morning. Goodbye Mweka. Goodbye Tanzania.

As we awoke on our last morning in Tanzania we could all tell that there was something different in the air. For us, the African Bushmeat Expedition 2009 Team, it was a mix of sadness, subtle happiness, with a thick under-layer of accomplishment. For everyone on the trip, our lives have been changed through the experiences we have gained from being here in Tanzania. Whether this was our first trip to Africa or we have spent part of our lives here, meeting the people, seeing the animals, experiencing the culture, and working at Mweka College has been a unique and truly once in a lifetime event.

So, as we woke this morning from our dormitory rooms at the Mweka College of Wildlife Management we were mixed in our feelings about returning home. But our first waking moments reminded us that there was still much to do before departing. One of the most crucial activities was packing, not only our own personal bags but also lab equipment. After our usual quick breakfast, of eggs, bread, and chai or kahawa (coffee), in the school cafeteria we moved to the lab full of preserved specimens, bones and skulls of a great variety of animals where we had spent the better part of our last four days working with the participants on DNA extraction and DNA amplification. We then began to clean the lab, disposing of used materials, cleaning tables, organizing pipettes, folding lab coats, disconnecting equipment, and all of the other things that go into a full cleanup.

We had many things to donate to Mweka and the beginnings of a wildlife forensics course. That is something for which we are very proud.

As several of us were cleaning the lab we also needed to perform the final step of our molecular process: PCR cleanup. PCR, or Polymerase Chain Reaction, is the process of artificially duplicating DNA. The issue with performing PCR is that if there is anything else in the extracted DNA then could be amplified. And if there is other material, besides purified DNA for the following steps, then your reaction may not work. Therefore, PCR cleanup is used to remove any of that other junk that may also be in your reaction. So, as the cleaning began so did the process of PCR cleanup. For our workshop we decided to split up our reactions that we would perform PCR cleanup, because we had duplicates and there would be no reason to perform PCR cleanup on all of them. Our plan was to try multiple transfer methods to the US to see which would work best for the participants in the future. The methods we are testing are:

1. Drying down post PCR DNA on filter paper in 6ul and 10ul increments
2. Transporting suspended post PCR DNA in Elution Buffer
3. Drying down post PCR cleanup DNA, using Life Technology ChargeSwitch method, on filter paper in 6ul and 10ul
4. Transporting post PCR cleanup DNA, using ChargeSwitch, suspended in EB

Each one of these methods are effective in their own ways. Megan actually helped test the filter paper method for DNA preservation while at High Tech High. Each of the filter paper methods are helpful because the DNA can be dried on to a small pieces of paper, placed into a plastic bag, and then sent in the mail.

Isaac Seme Solomon from the Boma Wildlife Training Center in Southern Sudan came by the lab to share some of his bushmeat photos from the region. The scenes were gruesome and had familiar challenges with animals stripped down of horns, hooves, and fur. He was proud to show the captured poachers in their primitive camps or seized vehicles, but also frustrated by the fact that region was so understaffed for such a large reserve. Mr. Solomon also stressed again and again the need for a workshop to be held in Southern Sudan with potential support from USAID and Wildlife Conservation Society. He invited us to come as soon as possible. He also shared a personal connection to E.O. Wilson. Evidently, Wilson was set to visit him at Boma some time ago, but was forced elsewhere due to weather.

During this chatting, cleaning and PCR cleanup time we also had a familiar visitor. Many of our readers may recognize the name Vincent Opyene, Wildlife Prosecutor from Uganda and star of the “Students of Consequence” documentary. He and Mwenja Eregi, Mentor fellow from Kenya paid a visit to the lab. Sadly these two, great aids to our last trip, were unable to attend our workshop because of a previous engagement at another bushmeat workshop at the San Diego Zoo’s Institute for Conservation Research. Despite this depressing coincidence we were able to visit with them early this morning, just after their return from America and prior to our return. In the end it all worked out though, as we were able to speak with them once again and gain their input on our workshop, their trip to America, and everything in between. Unfortunately, our reunion was brief as our departure time to the airport was drawing near. At this point we were rushing at a level above rushing in order to finish the packing, complete final interviews in the lab, and ensure that all lab supplies were in place. Finally we were ready to leave Mweka. After a few last goodbyes we left the college for the open skies. Well, we did make a few stops to purchase final gifts for friends and family.

Now the arduous, everlasting, and tiresome flight home will begin. We hope to doze and dream of migrating wildebeests, lions in the tall grass, crocodiles in the river and our many new and old friends working in wildlife conservation in East Africa.

From the entire African Bushmeat Expedition 2009 team, we would like to thank our readers, friends, and families for following our journey. We thank our partners at Life Technologies for their amazing support and our colleagues at the San Diego Zoo for their wisdom. And one last big “Asante sana” to the members of the Bushmeat Free East African Network. Please keep checking because we will be adding personal statements over the next few days.

P.S. Thank you Professor Shilla for all of your guidance and your friendship. Have a wonderful wedding. Safari njema! Thanks Peter and John for taking such great care of us at Mweka.

Today was a day of great things. Our new friends from East Africa were still very focused and passionate about every aspect of this course. We are all very happy that our hard work has been appreciated by all here at Mweka. It was wonderful to watch everyone be so involved in the manual PCR run yesterday. It was even better to find out today that we had some positive results from yesterday’s human operated polymerase chain reaction. Finding the primitive method worked today was cause for a great round of applause in the Mweka lab this AM. We think everyone realized the accomplishment.

After discussions of theoretical aspects of DNA sequencing and sequence analysis up in one of the teaching classrooms led by Megan and Zac, all groups clustered to generate regional species lists. Again everyone was very focused compiling the top bushmeat species for each region. This component of the workshop was very lively, especially with the Tanzanian representatives who generated species lists for both terrestrial and marine species.

We then had a culminating discussion on main ideas for our final report regarding our workshop. Poster paper was placed about the Serengeti Classroom with a series of questions for participants to brainstorm.. Interestingly, every classroom at Mweka is named for a different national park. After many thoughtful comments on the posters by our collaborators we had an extended discussion on the necessary items for our final report at the end of the workshop. We focused on a discussion of the next workshop, dissemination of concepts learned, and the future lab(s) in East Africa/Tanzania.

We then celebrated the end of the workshop by giving all a bushmeat identification workshop t-shirt and a copy of our Students of Consequence DVD and a thumb of key documents for our workshop. A few celebratory toasts were made and all were celebrating. The long anticipated workshop came to a close.

Mr. Kisingo, one of our workshop participants, took us down to explore the tunnels of the Chaga Chaga tribe. They were used by the Chaga Chaga during war times as a place to hide from the Maasai. The tunnels are over 400 years old and it was so amazing to see what could be constructed through hard work and determination through only the use of primitive tools. The tunnel was really warm and got increasingly smaller. Most of the group turned back a hundred meters in but Zac and Brittney continued on with Mr. Kisingo. There were lots of spiders and a few bats. On the way back to the entrance, Zac was in the lead. He saw one little bat fly in front of him, screamed like a little girl, and fell on the ground. It was a hilarious sight. We made it out of the tunnel, sweaty, but thrilled.

After our earlier closing celebration Martin from Tanzania invited us with other participants to the local container establishment across the road. This turned out to be a very warm, enthusiastic and special send off for us. Several kind toasts were made by the bushmeat fellows, along with colorful and amusing comments by our good friend Lazarus.

Zac and Brittney went to the the Kilimanjaro Christian Medical Center’s Research Laboratory to run PCR because they had a thermocycler that they allowed us to use. Their lab technician, Theonest, was incredibly helpful and stayed until 8 PM so that we could collect our samples. The kindness and generosity of the people here is amazing and we are so thankful.

After four hours of anticipation we ran gels and found that more than 70% of our samples contained DNA. It is so wonderful to know that the extraction worked and that our seminar participants can successfully complete DNA extraction.

We’re now packing up our supplies and preparing for our return trip. In the morning we will have to dry our samples to take them home. We leave Mweka around noon and we will try to stop in Moshi to do some last minute shopping. Most of us are ready to go home although I’m sure that we’ll miss the morning and afternoon tea breaks and not having to cook or clean for ourselves. Trajan and Evan, mommy misses you!

What an adventure it has been to carry out our Bushmeat Identification Workshop here at Mweka. Late last night, our pivotal piece of equipment, the thermocycler, stopped working, showing us an unusual error message that seemed to be related to the power source. After converting power, moving from outlet to outlet, and using a stable generator, still no luck for the thermocycler. We sent many emails, but there was not much to do. Thus, it is time for plan B. We decided to go old fashion, and do PCR as best as we could; we decided to do PCR by hand.

PCR works by using temperature and a chemical mixture of the necessary components to carry out artificial DNA replication. It brings the DNA up to 95C to denature the double helix, then to 50C to allow the primers to anneal, and 72C to allow the polymerase to extend. This meant we would need to simulate these temperatures on the dot to be able to successfully perform this final step at Mweka.

The next morning, Dr. Vavra began by teaching the class about PCR and gel electrophoresis. We set up a heat block, a cooking hot plate, and an old poorly sealed drying oven at each temperature and with one thermometer and various water baths, we were ready to attempt 35 cycles of 1:00 minute each.

In the process of obtaining the equipment we would need for our Plan B PCR, the IT director for Mweka, Simon, mentioned the possibility of utilizing the services of a local hospital. After some talk Dr. Vavra, Simon, and the lab director, Emanuel, headed down through the surrounding coffee plantations to the Kilimanjaro Christian Clinic and Hospital. The trip involved a series of discussions with hospital officials in an attempt to bring the PCR reactions down to the research division. A partially blinded man named Panga (short sword) showed the visitors an immaculate clean room for medical genetics. The thermocycler was brand new. However, after a long discussion with a lab supervisor it was determined that running the bushmeat class samples may contaminate the diagnostic thermocycler. The whole lab section was dedicated to HIV detection. It was quite depressing in a sense to see such a large section of the hospital devoted to HIV. Evidently, the number of cases continue to rise in Tanzania. It was suggested that the biotech research lab next door could also help. After a short visit it was determined that a letter from Mweka would be needed for the offsite supervisor to give approval. A very bright and helpful molecular biology Ph.D. from Dar Es Salaam, Theonest Ndyetabura showed Dr. Vavra a room with several thermocyclers that were the same as the lab at High Tech High. Hopefully, with approval one of them can be used by the class tomorrow.

In the meantime, the rest of the expedition team broke into rotations in order to interview, carry out our Plan B PCR, and assess the needs of our workshop members to move forward with conservation in East Africa.

A third of the group began with our Plan B PCR, setting up ten samples to cycle through our hotplate setup. In a chain of passing samples, the six workshop participants transferred samples from 95C to 50C to 72C as quickly as time could allow. No better way to understand PCR than to transfer ten small tubes from the denaturing step to the annealing to the extension. 35 cycles plus the time in between, the total PCR took nearly four hours to complete. Each time a new group would come in from the rotation, our workshop members had to keep the one minute cycles going between the three heated machines. We had some difficulties with temperature spikes and drops, but somehow, we managed to pull off our four hour procedure with the help of our lab participants.

Another rotation was to meet with Bryndan and talk about their thoughts on the workshop and the process of bushmeat identification. Each of the groups had very similar thoughts, but many interesting and different stories. All of the groups were curious as to what we would be planning next once the workshop was over. It was hard to answer at first, but with some conversations on what they thought should be next, some ideas were created to keep the momentum of the African Bushmeat Expedition going. Every individual also had amazing and intense stories of their personal experiences dealing with bushmeat. Some were very focused on the law and policy aspect, while others were more interested in the forensic and biology part. But regardless of their point of view, everybody agreed that this need for identification was a very important and were willing to work hard to keep this program in place.

During the rotations, we also pulled out a couple individuals to interview more in depth and hear their personal stories about wildlife conservation and their reaction to the workshop. Through these interviews, we heard some amazing stories about the bushmeat crisis in East Africa. Some of the workshop participants came from families that ate bushmeat for cultural and subsistence purposes when they were young. Others had adventurous stories of near-death encounters with buffalo and leopards in the field. These 30 to 40 minute interviews were able to cover much about conservation practices in East Africa. In addition to discussions of each individual’s work in the bushmeat trade, we were able to hear reactions from the workshop we had been hosting for the last few days. Many were excited by the new techniques they had come to learn. Others were surprised by what it took to identify a sample via DNA. Yet each of the participants prompted the question, “but what is next? How do we put this into practice?” The interviews gave insights which were both illuminating and invaluable to our research of the value of conservation in East Africa.

Something worth noting is the laboratory where we are carrying out our DNA workshop. The lab is a seemingly archaic museum, filled with some of the most amazing specimen in glass jars on shelves, all Tanzanian animals, many which have been stored for years. With trophy heads covering the empty bench tops, we have discovered jars filled with elephant ovaries, fetal blue monkeys, spitting cobras, and black mambas. These jars are filled with the specimen that researchers in the western-world write muilti-thousand dollar grants to collect. Yet here, they are commodities similar to how our biotechnology equipments are commodities to us. Today, the lab manager dissected a spitting cobra that was found in Tarangire National Park to preserve in formalin for future examples in class. At home, we marvel at the laboratory we were fortunate to use at High Tech High, I can only imagine what it would be like to learn about anatomy and ecology with the specimens present in the lab.

Yet by the end of the day, we were all anxious to know: did our crazy Plan B work to amplify our bushmeat samples? We ran an agarose gel which is the method to view whether or not there is DNA present after PCR and anxiously loaded the ten samples which we had labored over for the past four hours. Doing molecular biology is tricky because there are so many parameters which must be at the optimal condition in order to replicate DNA. After twenty minutes of running the gel, we viewed with Life Technologie’s Safe Imager to see any results. Rows 1 through ten showed no result yet 11 (our bushmeat sample control) showed a feint sign of DNA at the right size region. Could it be that our crazy plan B actually worked? It was very difficult to tell, and we are unable to determine whether or not we received a sample from the old-fashioned PCR. Still, it made us hopeful that a working piece of equipment could show some amazing results. Worn out by the end of the day, we closed down the lab and began to discuss what our last day at Mweka would be like.

Perhaps tomorrow, we will be able to partner with the hospital in Moshi and run our samples one more time to bring back to the states. Perhaps another gel at a different parameter will tell us whether or not we actually saw banding from our bushmeat sample. We are hopeful and we are optimistic yet all we can do now is rest and see what tomorrow will bring. We will be sad to leave and sad to end our workshop, but this experience has been one we will not soon forget.

(Brittney saw three more birds today. Our count is now 154.)

(We were able to send our pictures from the last couple of days, so please be sure to check previous posts for our photos.)

We anxiously awoke once again from our Mweka dormitory rooms prepared for the busy and important day ahead. Today was crucial, not quite the day of reckoning but almost, because this afternoon we were performing the DNA extraction protocol.

After first awaking from our slumber we ate a quick Tanzania breakfast of bread, hardboiled egg, and a pancake like crepe. Following the small meal we moved to the laboratory to begin the activities for the day. The first activity was to do an overview of yesterday as well as an overview of the extraction protocol. It took us about an hour to perform this overview but the time was well worth it as it prepared all of the participants for the rest of the day. It was Dr. Vavra during this period that was performing the teaching and so everyone else prepared the meat samples for the participants. This was quite interesting as we prepared three different samples: two fresh and one jerky. And prior the actual placing of the samples into microtubes we asked the participants to “guess” what type of meat it was. This was quite an interesting test as each of the participants are experts in the field and have seen a multitude of meat samples. Thus it was quite interesting when there was such a wide variety of guesses. Throughout the guessing we asked how they were creating their hypotheses. There were several main factors that the participants used to determine the species:

1. Fiber size to narrow down the size of the animal
2. Color of the meat to narrow down the species
3. Smell to tell the difference wild and domestic
4. Quantity of fat on the meat to determine wild or domestic

Sorry to those reading but we can’t post what the actual species we had are but we did have a domestic sample, a bushmeat sample, and a jerky sample. Please check back on a later day, after we have revealed the species to the participants, and the information will be online.

After the species hypothesizing the participants together then began the DNA extraction. In this step the participants added placed their sample in both a dry tube and a tube filled with isoproponal, to represent an in the field sample. The samples were then homogenized and a buffer was lysis buffer was added to break apart the cells and proteinase K to remove excess protein. The samples were then placed into a heat block to digest for 2-3 hours. (Note: This procedure is over simplified and is not word for word accurate. Please email if you have more specific questions on the protocol.)

At this point all of the groups had their samples in the heat block for digestion and we took a short tea break. Now, just before lunch, everyone was regrouped back into the lab to for a short explanation on the rest of the DNA extraction. In this quick explanation Zac described the MagnaRack, part of the Charge Switch kit, and how it would work in the DNA extraction process. Zac also described the pros and cons of the system, such as the fact that it small and portable compared to the full sized centrifuge but it was a bit more time consuming. Nonetheless, Life Technologies has done an amazing job simplifying the equipment so that it can be used anywhere, such as a Spartan laboratory in Tanzania. By the end of the explanation the participants were ready to move on but a quick lunch was in need.

Lunch ended and the participants were then split up based on the their samples, 1, 2 or 3. These groups then alternated between either the next steps in DNA extraction or a discussion on PCR, which normally had two groups.

For the DNA extraction we began to use the central component of the Charge Switch method, the MagnaRack. So for the participants moving on to the next step they would first began by adding a lysis buffer to break apart the cells. Once the cells are open you first must remove the RNA using an RNAse buffer. After completion of these first two steps you then add positively charged microscopic magnetic metallic beads. As we know DNA is negatively charged and so the DNA and beads bind together. With the DNA bound to the beads you can then place a magnet next to the container and all of the beads will clump next to the magnet. So, the DNA is attached to the beads and the beads are contained in one small part of the container. At this stage it is just a matter of adding a series of wash buffers and continually removing the liquid, to remove other organelles, to extract the DNA. The final step though is to separate beads from DNA. This is done through Elution Buffer (EB) which removes the charge from the beads. With the DNA and beads separate the magnet is added to pull the beads to one side. The EB will then contain your extracted DNA. Sorry if it is a bit complicated to our readers but the entire procedure is a bit long. If you are interested in learning more please email .

While some participants were working on the DNA extraction the rest were learning about Polymerase Chain Reaction (PCR). PCR is an incredibly important step in DNA sequencing. The basic idea of PCR is you place your DNA product into a thermocycler with Thermus aquaticus (Taq) (An enzyme which binds the primers), primers (to start the new DNA strands), and nucleotides (the A’s, T’s, G’s, C’s that build the DNA strands). So, you place all your materials into the thermocycler and then by adjusting the temperature you copy your DNA. Thus, the process is like a DNA copier, going through 35 cycles. By the end of the process you have billions of copies of DNA. This is important because if you do not have enough DNA you can not sequence.

This was about all we did today, but tomorrow we will actually be performing PCR. Exciting.

Last night we slept in the, more comfortable then camping, dormitory of the Mweka College of Wildlife Management. Despite being tired from the late night preparing for the workshop it was difficult to sleep in anticipation for the following days.

We awoke a few hours early for the first day of the workshop today, partially due to nervousness but mainly because we wanted to enjoy a hot indoor shower. Note that the showers were amazing and incredibly refreshing. After the showers and dressing in our remaining clean clothes we moved the supplies and equipment he, held in rooms overnight, to the laboratory we would be working in. At that point we not frantically but very quickly removed all of the packed equipment and organized it along the bench tops. Despite preparing the laboratory we began the workshop in the conference room, where the projector was. Slightly behind schedule we began the introductions of the participants and ourselves so that we could all understand the backgrounds of those involved. Following the introductions our initial presentation began, which would give the participants a better understanding of the DNA sequencing procedure and what would be occurring throughout the workshop over the next few days. Following the initial presentation the participants regrouped into the laboratory for a more in depth look at the procedure, basically a sped up version Dr. Vavra’s biotechnology class. Through this mini class the participants reviewed DNA and everything associated with DNA.

With the DNA information fresh in their minds the participants were then split into three groups so that we could do a simple rotation system to complete the tasks of the day:

1. Quick 5-min interview with Megan
2. Pipette training with Bryndan and Brittney
3. Free discussion with Dr. Vavra

For the pipette training with Bryndan and Brittney, they focused on four separate areas. Before the activities, an overall introduction was given on how to hold, use, and set a pipette. The first activity included learning how to measure in microliters and knowing what pipettes to use according to the amount needed. The second activity was learning how to use a pipette to mix a solution in a tube without creating bubbles, since this can be devastating to the sample. Finally was an activity focusing on accuracy where each of the participants used food coloring mixed with water to create beads of water on paper. They were asked to write or draw something as long as everything is equally spaced and sized. This was the most liked activity of the three since they were able to be creative and work together. By the end of the session every group was pretty comfortable with how to use a pipette. Some still wished they could have more practice time, but overall their knowledge of how to use a pipette was very good by the end of the day and a great start to the workshop.

The discussion group with Dr. Vavra covered a range of issues related to bushmeat in East Africa. Much of the talk focused on how to implement a wildlife forensics lab in Tanzania with the TANAPA representatives. It seemed appropriate to coordinate the three main entities controlling wildlife populations, national parks, game reserves, and Ngorongoro Conservation Area. Currently, national parks have game officers who attempt to analyze bushmeat samples and report to magistrates. Once again we heard that meat stripped of horns, hooves and fur would be tossed out of court. Ideally, it seems that a central forensics lab would work best for these different groups. It also seemed possible to gather data on the number of cases that come in monthly or annually from the different parks. Issues in Kenya and Sudan seemed much more difficult. Many times police officers sieze bushmeat in Nairobi but they are not trained to present cases effectively before the magistrates. Thus, they walk free. Continued conflict in Sudan has placed wildlife conservation as a very low priority. These news was quite depressing. It was hopeful that workshop members were so passionate about doing whatever they could to preserve wildlife. Participants were selected to report on specific topics for the final course document. There was also discussion on costs of such a lab for each region. Additionally, groups talked about the cost of wildlife alive and the savings of removing convicted poachers from the bush. Participants also had questions covering the morning talk on genetics. So far the workshop has been very successful.

Lastly, the final rotation consisted of short personal interviews to discover the workshop participant’s work and interest in wildlife management. We also wanted to assess the group’s feelings towards the Bushmeat Identification Workshop. Each individual had a unique story about their interest in wildlife management, but a uniform theme across the workshop participants was a need for species identification, specifically in court situations. The park wardens discussed their difficulties in identifying wild meat from domestic meat when they would come across samples confiscated from poachers or in the marketplace. The teachers at Mweka discussed trends in wildlife populations over the next few generations and each told a story of overpopulation by humans affecting the steady decline in animal populations. The need is here; our next challenge will be working together to share our knowledge and find a way to move forward for wildlife conservation in East Africa.

We awoke early this morning, prior to the rising of the African sun, on a day that seemed like any other day… but today was different. Today was a day filled with bitter happiness. After a classic Dorobo Safari breakfast of porridge, bacon, and fruit we packed our belongings, as today was our final day of camping on the trip. It was today we left the rugged green Land Rover we have called home for two weeks for the dormitory lifestyle and Bushmeat Identification Workshop at the Mweka College of Wildlife Management. Truly bitter sweet.

After breakfast this morning we began our final game drive. From our campsite we drove a few kilometers to the beautiful Lake Manara. We dawdled through the lush green rainforest, which is so green due to underground springs and not rain, until we approached the edge of the lake. At this point we were able to stretch our legs a bit and watch the hippos mozy around. Lucky for us we were able to view several, very loud, hippo skirmishes, a hippo family walking outside the water, and perfect “V” of pelicans. Did we mention that the sun was shining and the clouds just barely splotched the sky? After just a few minutes at the lake we all realized that it was an amazing ending location for our safari.

We completed the game drive at Lake Manara and then returned back to camp for a delicious, final, Dorobo meal and, more importantly, to give our thanks to our beyond amazing guides and now friends. For this final meal we had fantastic grilled cheese with veggies and a spicy vegetable curry. By the time we were ready to leave the tears were running, not in sadness but in laughter because of the all the memories we had created over such a relatively short time. Like the time Gidion said he was going to get firewood and then five minutes later walks back with a piece half his size and already burning. And who could forget the time that Killerai tried to convince Brittney that Gidion enjoyed being tasered. Through the laughter we managed to take dozens of goodbye pictures and give our final goodbyes.

It was now time for our final trek to Mweka, at the base of Mount Kilamanjaro, but not before two last stops. Our first stop was at Dorobo Safaris HQ. While it does not sound like a very spectacular stop the HQ was one of the most lush and beautiful places of the trip; a sort of gem hidden throughout the trees. It took a bit longer then expected but the stop was important as the door for the car had been broken for some time and could not lock, attached by the industrial strength rubber bands. (Hatari for Dr. Vavra) (Note: Hatari means danger) After the fixing of the door we then moved onto our last stop before Mweka. Our final stop was to gladly pick up Lazarus Saruni, Tanapa Official and Park Warden. For those following the blog you may recognize his name from previous blogs as well as the Students of Consequence documentary. And so we picked up Lazarus so that he could also participate in the Bushmeat Identification Workshop at Mweka.

At this point it was beginning to get dark and we were a good distance from Mweka. But of course we trudged through the darkness and depressingly thick fog until we reached the base of Mount Kilamanjaro. We had arrived at Mweka. Jubilee. Now raining, we quickly removed the bags from top of the land rover and set them in the hallway of the dormitory. After ensuring the vehicle empty of our doodads and nicknacks from their familiar places we gave our goodbyes to Killerai; Killerai being our guide for the entirety of the trip. But the word guide does not fully describe what Killerai was on the trip. He was there at every turn, every issue, and every laugh. Killerai was an integral member of the team who truly made the trip a better experience. So, we said our goodbyes, gave our hugs, bear hugs for most, and promised to meet again.

The bags were then organized and placed into our separate rooms. Finally it was time for food. After an overly long break between meals we were able to eat our fill of Mweka cuisine. Following the meal it was time for a quick strategic meeting in order to work out the last few kinks of our workshop. And yes there were a few kinks. One main issue was that we were to have 4 more people then the maximum we had planned for. Due to this issue we then under time and material issues. With the increase in participants it would make every step of the process take longer and therefore put unnecessary pressure on us.

But now is not the time to think about the issues that we are to face. Every workshop has problems but the important thing to remember is that with this workshop we will be able to work with true experts in the field while providing some of the information we have gathered. In the end, the experience of the workshop will be beneficial for all parties. That is what is important.

But now it is time for sleep. Lala salama.

What a long day. What a long, long, long day. We woke up at 5 am this morning and left camp by 6:30. A full day of exciting driving brought us to Manyara National Park at 7:30 pm. Killerai joked that we would see everything exciting only when we were in a hurry (haraka), which we were today, but it turned out to be less of a joke and more of the truth.

We went back out to the Grumeti River to see if we could catch the wildebeest crossing when we stumbled upon two lions engaging in an act that we had not witnessed before: mating. It was disappointing to hear that they had just finished when we spotted them, but it was only a matter of 20 minutes before they went at it again. A whole 17 seconds of fun ending with lots of snarling! 10 minutes of waiting, and then they did it again! It was so exhilarating to see animals engaging in a very natural behavior. We probably would have watched them longer but we were in a hurry so we moved on.

Not long after there was a flock of vultures on the ground by the side of the road. Why were they there? A freshly killed zebra. A lion must have killed it but there was none in sight. Maybe it was a peace offering to the vultures. There was a new species of vulture there too. Ruppell’s Griffon Vulture. Again, we moved on quickly, until we saw the next mortality.

A little Thompson’s Gazelle that had fallen prey to a motor vehicle. There was a flock of vultures waiting to gobble it up too. We would have liked to collect a sample from it for our workshop, but TANAPA probably would have had some things to say to that. It seemed as if we had used up all of our good animal-spotting luck for the day, when we stumbled across another new bird species. The Imperial Eagle. It was not fully matured but it was still a beautiful sight. We noticed that it had been eating something but we didn’t figure out what until Dr. Vavra went to go check the spare tire. There, by the side of the road, was a dikdik with its legs splayed and its intestines out for the world to see. It was a quick stop and we continued on our way.

Not more than 2 km before the exit of Serengeti National Park we pulled to the side of the road where three land rovers were stopped and looking at something. We figured that it was another lion or two and were about to leave. That would have been a mistake. Less than 200 meters away was a duma. A CHEETAH! Everything we had seen thus far had built up to that moment. It truly was the climax of our trip. It seemed to trot along slowly as it went after some Tommy’s, but it covered a lot of ground very quickly. It was a unique and wonderful experience to see a cheetah in action. Once again, our rush separated us from the cheetah before we would have liked to go. When we finally made it to the Serengeti entrance we stopped to have lunch. Brittney successfully a bottle of coke with another bottle! Dr. Vavra is still the master though.

After lunch, we rattled along and gassed through the Ngorongoro crater. It was nice to see the beautiful crater once again. At the top we noticed that a brace holding the spare tire had broken off of the land rover, and an axle cap had fallen off. Good thing we are nearing the end of the safari. Although we are all sad that it’s almost over, our land rover has been through a lot and we’re not sure how much more it could take.

At the exit gate of Ngorongoro Conservation Area, we stopped to pay and take a restroom break. We observed more over-confident baboons trying to enter vehicles. As three of us were still sitting inside the land rover, a baboon tried to jump into it through Dr. Vavra’s open window but we managed to scare it away. But it wasn’t done trying yet. Again, it jumped up on the hood of the car but ran away when we rapped the hood with an orunga, a Maasai club. It was done with our car but it moved on to another target across the parking lot. A land rover with one door not fully closed. We watched as it opened the door and hopped inside. Killerai ran over to the land rover as it was exiting with its prize: a nice banana. It went and sat down on the sidewalk and ate the banana like Curious George. Those monkeys sure do like to rub it in our faces. Killerai came back and described to us the look of shock that was on the woman who had been in that car’s face. The baboon had taken her by surprise and she had been frozen in terror and strapped into her seat. Baboons 2 – Humans 0.

We stopped in Karatu to refuel. No one tried to sell us anything this time. We also managed to pick up another axle cap. After the land rover was ready, we set off again. This was the home stretch. Through Mosquito River town (Mbutoma) and finally settling in at our camp in Lake Manyara. There are lots of bugs here, wadudu they’re called. Everyone ate dinner quickly and retreated to their tents. Tomorrow will be another busy and eventful day.

Today was a very productive day in unexpected ways. First on our way back to our usual spot on the Grumeti River, we ran into a Bataleur sitting elegantly in a tree with its feathers ruffling in the wind. It’s magnificent red beak was extraordinary against its black and white feathers. Killerai was exceptionally amazed as it was the first time he has ever seen a Bataleur sitting quietly in a tree.

We then ran into thousands of wildebeest in the middle of their migration up to the north. They were so vast in their numbers it looked like they were endless along the Serengeti planes. For those back home, it was like driving through a National Geographic video. The wildebeests surrounding our vehicle were like locusts, but less annoying and much more incredible.

Once we made our way through the vastness of the wildebeest, we finally arrived at our usual spot on the Grumeti River. We stayed for about 2 ½ to 3 hours cautiously waiting for the wildebeest and crocodiles, watching the interaction between predators and their prey. The wildebeest tentatively came down to the river a few times, but were never lingering long enough for the crocodiles to make a move. One of the most remarkable things we noticed was the patience of the crocodiles as they waited for the wildebeest to come. After 3 hours our patience was waning and the frustration setting in, so we decided to take a break to find a quiet and shady spot for lunch.

In the 90 degree heat, it took a while to find a nice spot, but along the road with the roaming wildebeest we finally found the perfect spot. Underneath a beautiful tree we were able to have a delicious lunch while watching the lurking wildebeest. We also were lucky to find Killerai’s favorite bird, the Silverbird. It made a delightful sound above us as we listened to the grunt/honk of the wildebeest.

On our way back to search for some more action between the crocodiles and wildebeest, we wanted to make a stop at one of the best river crossing spots in the Serengeti. However, on our way we found an empty truck with a sign stating: “Filming in progress, do not follow.” We ventured forth anyway to find a person on lookout for any intruders. He stated that he was a representative for both the BBC and a German Television Network doing a documentary on the migration of the wildebeest and we were not permitted to enter. This was a disappointment since we were really excited about going to this remarkable spot, but we moved along like the other land rovers to go back to waiting spot on the Grumeti.

While we waited for another 3 hours, hoping to see a possible kill by a crocodile, but instead were lucky to see the mating ritual of the crocodile. The mating of the crocodiles was a unique experience to watch. They rolled around in a passionate thunder in an attempt to create the next generation of Nile crocodiles. The entire scene was both curious and once in a lifetime. During this time some beautiful art was being created by both Megan and Brittney as well. Trying to capture the beauty of the animals we have seen thus far, both drew from scratch animals such as the warthog, magpie shriek, and okapi.

After watching this wondrous event, we left for the day to go back to our camp. This was not the end of our excitement however. What was waiting for us would be another once in a lifetime event—a heard of elephants protecting their young from passing land rovers. As we started to pass by them, the matriarch elephant started charging toward us, an obvious sign for us to not be there. So with Killerai’s cleverness, we found a path that would go further around the elephants. This however did not stop them from planning a soldier-like formation, knowing we would take another path. As we moved around them, all six started to charge toward us, even the young. In the adrenaline pumping moment, we were shocked with amazement, fear, and joy. Being so close to stampeding elephants was a moment that none of us will forget.

Once we finally made it to the bridge, we were even more awestruck to find three male hippos, spreading their massive jaws, fighting for dominance. While they exposed their mighty molars, we were amazed to watch these other predators fight for the top. Their movement was both elegant and fearsome as we sat stunned watching. On our second to last road back to camp, we were fare welled by a mighty line of wildebeest, moving so fast the dust from the ground swept into the air. This sight reinforced our connection with nature and the absolute beauty and amazement that we are so fortunate to experience in this amazing country.

Our first night of the Serengeti was spent cautiously listening to the sounds of the hyena and lions, but thankfully the large carnivores kept their distance. After a tasty breakfast of eggs, toast, and granola we began our morning game drive. On our drive we had two goals:

1. Find a herd of wildebeest crossing the Grumeti
   
2. Locate the crocodile of the Grumeti
   

Prior to completing our goals we made a detour at a river crossing bridge. As we were driving through the plains we made a slight turn towards the river and then there was a bridge. We were all a bit nervous to see this 4 person max bridge made from planks of wood and twisted pieces of wire.

But as we began to walk along the bridge we realized how beautiful and diverse the placid river was. With the scattered crocodiles and hippos dotting the flat water we were able to appreciate the area from a view only possible from the bridge. Once we moved to the other side of the bridge we then began to pose for pictures. Brittney of course chose the top of a thick branch that crossed several trees. Zac, filming the entire situation, walked towards her and unfortunately bumped the branch Brittney was perched on. FLAP! Brittney dropped off of the relatively high branch in utmost terror, but with her cat-like instincts she held on with her legs. Brittney was more of a bat at this point hanging upside down, Dr. Vavra’s jaw nearing the ground in fear of losing a student.

Luckily for us we were able to accomplish both of these goals within 45 minutes of the drive. As we were driving along the river we noticed in a large open plain a massive herd of wildebeest. Following the wildebeest we found an overlook to the river. Looking down onto the pale bluish-green water we found 9 crocodiles munching, chewing, eating, ingesting, consuming, feasting, masticating, shredding, twisting, ripping, and devouring a wildebeest. It was truly a sight to see a group of crocodiles performing their death roll, trying to remove the limbs and head of a wildebeest. The splashing and ripping sounds added to the drama. And yes, they did succeed.

As we sat watching the crocodiles glide along the river, like battle ships through the open ocean, the herd of wildebeest we had been following slowly creeped towards the cool water, partially aware of the looming danger. As the time passed the afternoon heat began to dry the creatures’ mouths and their pushing towards the water became stronger and stronger. Finally approaching the water the wildebeest drank. They started to crowd in and push each other forward. The crocodiles slowly drifted toward the group on the bank. Finally the crocodile dives preparing for the strike. Then another Land Rover began to pull up and the wildebeest scattered backwards. We tried to wait for another strike but sadly the wildebeest never moved back down to the water’s edge but rather ran further along the river.

Another interesting situation along the river was hearing the yellow billed storks as they flew into the river. We were sitting there watching the animals and then we heard these bomber jets flying over our head. We looked up only to see a flock of these storks dropping down to the ground. The entire incident was like a scene from Dr. Strangelove.

By the late afternoon the heat and length of game drive finally took its toll and we accepted the sad fact that we would not be able to see a river crossing. We pulled back to the camp for lunch and a quick cool down. It was that we realized that we had been lacking on personal interviews of our team. So, after a tasty meal, we set up a station in front of our ABE land rover vehicle for a few hours of interviews. Sadly, we completed the very necessary interviews too late to leave for another game drive, but we were in desperate need of interviews. It is also important to note that today we all took showers, which everyone needed.

Also a special shout out goes to Brittney’s sis.

And now in the distance there are fires. The winds are shifting like the era of conservation in East Africa. Nite. Lala salama.

This morning, we awoke to strange noises. They were coming from our guide Killerai. We sat down around the fire to a very nice breakfast of cereal, sausage, and French toast. Gideon is an excellent chef. It’s so nice to be camping again and our meals are so much better than they were in the lodges. Our departure from Seronera occurred late in the morning and we headed over to Tanzanian Wildlife Research Institute (TAWIRI) to see if there were any more potential partners for our bushmeat crisis endeavors.

There, we were very fortunate to speak to Dr. Richard Hoare, veterinarian/pathologist, who talked to us for an extended amount of time. We learned about how animal samples are currently being collected and stored in Tanzania; Dr. Hoare has been collecting them for over 12 years and approximates 15,000 samples taken. For us it was a great experience to be able to speak to such an expert in the field. Richard was born and raised in Africa and has spent his life devoted to conservation. During our discussion we described our project and future plans at Mweka College and, with great anticipation, Richard gave us advice on how to advance. It was just amazing to be able to hear how to work here on such an ambitious project from someone who has been successfully running a sustainable lab in Africa. Richard also described the projects that he has worked on. One particular story that was of interest to us was the rise of ticks in Ngorongoro. According to Richard, in the ‘70s, when the Maasai were forced to move out of the crater basin, they stopped burning the fields as well. Because all of the animals in the area had adapted to the seasonal burning, when the burning stopped the tick populations grew exponentially and with that growth came diseases that hadn’t been seen for decades. When these diseases started appearing, grassland researchers were hired to figure out what the problem was. They quickly determined that it was the field burning and they told the Maasai to resume their burning, so the problem was fixed. It was really funny to hear this story from him because we had heard about the same problem from the Hyena researchers but they told us that they had figured out the problem when they realized that they Hyena population had declined as a result of the Maasai leaving.

Dr. Richard Hoare also showed us his sample collection, which he has preserved in many ways. He has freezers set at -20C° full of tissue samples, a container (doer) with samples in liquid nitrogen, and closets full of samples in formalin, hair samples, and samples preserved in wax. We also got to see his incredible necropsy table that can be used to dissect creatures as large as a Cape Buffalo. He has a small centrifuge too, which was surprising.

He was incredibly honest the entire time he spoke with us and he gave us many very important pieces of advice. One of those was to make sure that we keep everything simple, because then less can go wrong. For this he referenced the cars and planes that are used throughout Tanzania. He also pointed us to a molecular lab that is currently being set up in Arusha, so we will try to contact them and see if they will partner with us. It was inspiring to see the work that currently being done in Tanzania because it shows us that our project can be successful too.

We took off from TAWIRI and stopped by the Frankfurt Zoological Society Headquarters. After this brief stop to share our project we embarked on our journey across the Serengeti to the Western Corridor—to a region not far from Lake Victoria. Thousands of nyumbu (wildebeest) joined us on our expedition as they migrated across Tanzania. It was amazing to see so many of them running on both sides of us, even if they are not the brightest animals. By the side of the road, we stopped to examine one of the nyumbu that had been taken down before it could complete its migration. Hundreds of maggots filled its eyes, mouth, ears and throat and the smell was overwhelming. Although some might think it was disgusting, this was the circle of life in action. One wildebeest gave birth to thousands of flies. Watching the maggots wriggle around was absolutely spectacular. We were tempted to get out and collect a sample for our workshop, but we didn’t.

As we continued on our way, we witnessed the controlled fires of the Tanazanian National Parks (TANAPA). TANAPA burns out sections of the Serengeti to allow new grass to grow in so that the animals always have food. As we know from Ngorongoro, these fires are crucial to the sustainment of wildlife.

We finally arrived at camp at Handajenga, near Kijareshi, where we will stay for the next couple of nights, in the early evening. First thing on our agenda? Tasing Brittney. Killerai didn’t even flinch when he pulled out the taser to address her three bug bites. When that was all said and done, we sat down to another fine meal around the campfire. Happy birthday Dalai Lama.